Copper Poisoning

ShortyKiloGyrl

Well-Known Member
Staff member
plaamoo said:
Can you draw water where it enters the building, before it circulates through the system? If it's an older building especially the copper may be leaching from the pipes as it circulates through the house.

This would be very hard to do. I would have to dig down to the pipe and tap into the line I believe. An RO/DI system I think would be much simpler and easier to do.
 

plaamoo

New Member
Yeah that's not what I had in mind. Sometimes there is a tap in the basement where the line enters, before it goes through the house.
 

ShortyKiloGyrl

Well-Known Member
Staff member
We have a single story home and a I have never been under the house to tell. As well we have a 10" thick concrete driveway...
 

hose91

Member
Sorry to hear about all the troubles!

Somewhere between your house and the street there is a water main shutoff valve, and occasionally it will have a tap off it or somewhere nearby. This would be useful if you wanted to test the hypothesis that the heavy metals are coming from your pipes and not your supplier. There are companies like repipe.com that advertise complete Pex repiping of homes in something like 72 hours if it turned out, in fact, that your pipes were leaching copper into your tap water. How old is the house/plumbing? Overall, simply a thought to consider for your long term health and water needs!
 

ShortyKiloGyrl

Well-Known Member
Staff member
I talked to the city and they said the lines are all plastic this end of town. So that leaves my pipes basically. I'm looking into RO/DI systems right now.
 

bassetman

Member
Look at bulk reef supply. I use their 150 gallon per day water saver system. It reduces wasted water by half. Fills a five gallon bucket in 35 minutes with my 80 psi pressure. Supplying the altums and apistos uses 1 12dollar bag of DI resin in five weeks. Very satisfied with the system . Took less than five minutes to set up and get it going.
 

ShortyKiloGyrl

Well-Known Member
Staff member
I just watched three videos of theirs yesterday! Glad to hear good info about them. Their videos were very informative.
 

bassetman

Member
I got the basic unit and then added more prefiltration and a second DI stage and carbon block. So I have eight stages. 5, 1 and .5 micron prefilters two 5 micron and a .6 micron carbon blocks two 75 Gpd RO membranes the second of witch works on the waste of the first. And two DI stages. Before the DI I have 1ppm and after I have zero ppm water. Every five weeks I refill the exhausted DI stage and swap the DI canisters so the newest is second in line. System comes with an auto shutoff valve and membrane flush preinstalled I added a float switch to activate the shutoff when my 55 gallon holding container is full.
 

bassetman

Member
My water is rock hard and goes off scale on the ppm meter before the RODI . My holding tank circulates through peat for my black water fishes comfort. Ask any other questions and I will try to help all I can.
 

ShortyKiloGyrl

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Oh man so much of that just went right over my head. I just started looking into these about a week ago so I don't really understand to much on how they work. Lol
 

bassetman

Member
Water goes in from your supply into the prefilters to remove sediments and any large particles. Then into the carbon blocks to remove any chemical impurities. Then into the Ro membrane where you get high ppm waste water and very low ppm product water. In my system the waste from membrane one goes through another RO me,brand giving more low ppm water and very high ppm waste. Then the water goes into the de ionization resin to remove any remaining ppm of impurities. Multiple DI stages are used mainly to extend the intervals of replacing the resin. One stage lasts my about five weeks. Two stages last ten weeks. I then filter through peat moss to add back some trace minerals and tannins I also add some acid buffer to lower and stabilize the ph to about 4.5. This is a simplified explaination but is basically correct.


Having the auto shutoff is handy to prevent overflows. A flush kit extends the life of the Ro membranes .....they typically last 2-3 years and are about 60 bucks to replace .
 

ShortyKiloGyrl

Well-Known Member
Staff member
Thank you! That's the kind of description I needed. That helps it make much more sense to me. :) I need to get on one of these ASAP and figure out where to put it. :/
 

bassetman

Member
I PMed my phone number. Please call if you have questions and I am glad to help. It was heartbreaking to hear of your losses. Anything I can do to get you going again would make me feel better..
 

ShortyKiloGyrl

Well-Known Member
Staff member
bassetman said:
I PMed my phone number. Please call if you have questions and I am glad to help. It was heartbreaking to hear of your losses. Anything I can do to get you going again would make me feel better..

Thank you, that means alot! Everyone here is so great. I nearly threw in the towel on the hobby. I have decided not to get another green spotted puffer for now. Instead when I get things settled and situated again I will get a figure 8 puffer since they stay a bit smaller. That way I can have a few other tank mates in with it.
 

dleblanc

New Member
Now that I read this, I'd go full on RO/DI. RO and carbon will help, but you need more than just help - you need to knock this problem out. I'd also talk to the state EPA - seems the copper isn't a human health problem, but the lead sure is.
 

ShortyKiloGyrl

Well-Known Member
Staff member
So I went full RO/DI and the city says their lines are all plastic so anything in our water has to be from our pipes, so our responsibility. :/ the ro/di system should be here Friday but the holding tank won't be until next week I think. I was wondering what I should use for a mineral additive. I know Seachem cichlid salt was recommended.

Dleblanc, what do you use? Angels are my main concern and I know they are similar but more hardy than discus.
 

dleblanc

New Member
I use SeaChem alkaline buffer to bring the KH up to where I need it. I have plants, to try to keep that around 5. If you don't have plants, still need to bring it up to about 2, or minor changes can produce large pH swings. I use SeaChem equilibrium to get GH where I want it, and to get various trace minerals back where they belong. Check the price per gram on Amazon - smaller bottles can be as much as 2-3x more.

If you wanted to make a chemistry project out of it, you can mix your own for cheaper, but I have enough projects.
 

ShortyKiloGyrl

Well-Known Member
Staff member
So my next thing I need to do is figure out the periodical table in accordance to what I need and try and get all this figured out. Uhg, this is getting stressful on the minerals end now.
 
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