Is this a fungus?

[DMD123]

Apparently my silver dollars are like the equivalent of cockroaches in the fish world. Nothing seems to kill them. They are actually pretty cool because 3 of them are the red hooks and one of those has really cool red/orange speckles on him. They are not very intelligent but everyone who sees them usually comments on them. They always seem to get noticed first due to the schooling group of 5 roaming the tank. Happy that they started eating! A step in the right direction.

 

[Madness]

Hey Zerc, you still havent answered the question, what are your parameters? Ammonia issues, or air issues, or its a gill issue.

 

[Zerc]

I tested and found trace nitrites/nitrates after my water change (which is unusual as i usually dont have any) but i gave them another dose of prime and the readings went away. i can see bubbles / strings of bubbles sticking in gills, with occasionally large bubbles coming out and floating to the surface.

I also noticed grey spots on a few fish (my black ghost knife is half grey) and scales coming off a few other fish.

 

[Madness]

I think I found your problem Zerc.

Chilodonella​

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Chilodonella cyprinii.
Causative organism: Ciliated protozoan parasite viz: Chilodonella cyprinii.
Synonyms (alternative names): None
Geographic distribution: Worldwide
Water type: Fresh water.
Typical signs of infection: Chilodonella cyprinii.

Water. Poor
water quality can bring on the reproduction of the parasite, as the fish become
stressed.

Behavior.
Labored breathing, and fish may appear at surface gasping for air. Fish will
evidence lethargy, and may from time to time, try to "scratch" of the organisms,
by rubbing against an object of some kind in the aquarium. Distress is visibly
obvious.

Fins. Fins
often become clamped or folded

Body.
Excessive mucous production is typical, & parts of the body will exhibit a
cloudiness as large numbers of the parasite begin feeding of the epithelial
layers.

Gills. Gill
examination will show large numbers of the leaf shaped organisms.

Skin
(smear). Should show ciliates once an infection has become established.


Life cycle & method of transmission.


This protozoan parasite occurs frequently in fresh
water Aquaria, & has a counterpart in marine aquaria called Brookynella. The
parasite is vaguely leaf shaped with a length of 40-70 microns, & a width of
some 30-50 microns. The ventral side of the parasite is covered with cilia.
Inside the cell for those of you, who have a microscope, & wish to examine same,
are a nucleus and two contractile vacuoles. These are made more evident, by
staining the slide with a smear taken from an infected fish, using a stain such
as methylene blue, or methyl violet.

Reproduction of the parasite takes place typically
by mitotic division, but from time to time a pairing of two individuals takes
place called conjugation, and an exchange of some genetic material probably
takes place.

As with many parasitic infestations,
Chilodonella can lie dormant for long periods of time, but if and when the
fish becomes stressed or weakened for any reason, or if the quality of the water
conditions in the Aquarium deteriorate, then rapid reproduction of the parasites
can ensue, and once the gills are attacked mortality is to be expected.


Prognosis


When a heavy infestation of Chilodonella has
taken hold, then some casualties are to be expected. Usually certain species
such as Discus, will become infected most severely first, but if untreated other
varieties will succumb as well. However if correct treatment is applied in good
time, then it can not only be checked but it is also possible to eliminate the
parasite.

Young fish have less capacity to resist the
parasite, & will more easily succumb.

Treatment


Fortunately if successfully diagnosed, there are
several treatments that can be used.

These include the use of formaldehyde used as a
bath as well as Acriflavine type drugs along with methylene blue. One should
follow the manufacturer's instructions for treatment, as different producers,
use different concentrations, & it is therefore impossible to give a standard
treatment for all the medications out there. At Fish-Vet we produce two very
effective treatments for this condition called Aqua Pro-Cure and Revive, which
are safe for
invertebrates and plants

In treating the fish, one should always make
allowances for the degree of infection, as weakened fish may not always
withstand the full dosage, either in strength, or period of time. This call is
one which either one builds up experience over time or with the help of a dealer
whose expertise you can trust.

As Chilodonella is not affected by change of
water temperature, no change should be made to your heater.



Here is the link to the above read. http://www.fishvet.com/Chilodonella.htm

 

[Zerc]

Oxy Clear will kill it maybe? I can treat again in 48 hours.

I did another WC @ 40% and the fish are not at the top anymore for the moment. My test strips dont test for ammonia levels, only nitrate/nitrite so i suppose i could have had an ammonia spike after the oxy clear, since i put it in sunday?

 

[DMD123]

Test strips are not the most accurate. A real test kit is what you need.

Sounds like what madness found may be what is going on. I would change up the treatment. The PP is sometimes used for gill flukes in the research I did but in this case I would look at switching it up to the other recommended treatment. And of course salt will also help and its cheap! (Dont buy pet store salt! Use the stuff from the grocery store non-iodine)

 

[DMD123]

Follow up: I noticed a small fuzzy spot on the side of the pearsei and a bit on his tail. He still is not eating.

I think the combo of the parasite, fungus meds, and salt might be working. The pearsei seems to be breathing a little better without the cough action like he is trying to get something out.

 

[Zerc]

My fish as well are better this morning, still breathing harder than normal, but everyone is active and eating.

 

[Zerc]

Sounds like your Pearsei might pull through!

 

[DMD123]

My fish as well are better this morning, still breathing harder than normal, but everyone is active and eating.

Did you change up any meds?

 

[Zerc]

nope, haven't done a thing. I guess the PP messed up my water?

 

[DMD123]

I only did the one dose of PP and my tank was pretty thrashed. It was covered in a white film all over the glass. Does not seem like it killed off my good bacteria or anything.

I would definitely try a new approach with the fact you seem to be catching this early. Salt is cheap and most freshwater parasites do not like it. Also need to try some of the recommended meds in the article madness posted or some other parasite meds.

 

[Zerc]

I am keeping the tank salted, gotta wait til friday for meds though (payday).

 

[Madness]

If you look up Potassium Permanganate it will tell you exactly what it will do. You need to follow to a T, as with all meds. Your issue which I posted above clearly points at a bacteria brought on by a dirty tank/water. The PP is not going to clean the tank or make the water better, it is only going to help clear a bacteria that is in your tank. If the dose of PP is not effective, than you must try something else.

Pull out all ornaments, rocks, wood and clean them. Gravel vac everyday, and clean the filters. I have posted several ideas and possible problems for you, now you need to help these little guys out.

 

[Zerc]

I think the cyprinii sounds like what it might be, the only contrary evidence was the small bit of fungus my jag had, but it has disappeared since the PP treatment.

The only issue with the PP is that i cannot do water changes while i am using it in the tank.
If the root of my issue (which is possible) is dirty water then i will have to buy another filter.

i currently run two rena canister filters (xp3 and xp4).

I am going to buy one of the recommended meds on friday when i get paid, that is as soon as i can do it.

i did clean my filter sponges 12 days ago!(it had been almost 4 months) Maybe i had a spike and didn't see it.

I do not often test my water, i do a weekly 50% wc, remove all deco, and vac the gravel to keep my tank pretty clean with my filters.(or so i thought it would keep them clean)

 

[DMD123]

Your stock is also going to become an issue as they get bigger. Are you in the process of a larger tank? What do you plan on keeping as your final stock?

 

[Zerc]

I began planning for a larger tank a month or so ago, I will be purchasing it probably in june. (my lease ends in may and i want to buy it after i move)
Driftwood prep has begun!


the biggest stock tank my lfs can get is only 210, so I may have to go to fishtanksdirect.com (the free delivery is pretty sweet)

right now most of my fish are about 3 inches long, except for my three bigger ones that are between 4.5 and 7"

I am selling my sunshine pleco (my longest fish), in part because i wont get the bigger tank until june.

 

[DMD123]

The real tank buster will be the arowana. There is a lot of debate on tank size for these guys but they usually agree that the tank should be at least 30" wide. I would probably look at at least a 30x30x96 (330g). Thats at least a $3000 tank! Might be able to at least move up to a 180 or 210 without a huge investment. This will allow you to some time an maybe get a bigger tank yet.

 

[Zerc]

I am prepared to spend a few thousand on a tank, i will build my own stand. I am undecided on keeping the arowana, he has drop eye on one eye that i didn't notice when he was smaller.

but my daughter loves him...

 

[DMD123]

The drop eye is pretty common in silvers. The blacks tend to not get this, but they are much more expensive. I would love to have a black arowana but just feel it would be cruel with only a standard 210g to raise it in.

If the arowana was not in the mix you could change tank dimensions. The 120" long tank would be awesome!