Water pump ideas...

DMD123

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Im looking to make a water changer for being able to drain water quickly out of the 300 and/or to use on my 65B's that sit low to the ground. The python is a huge waste of water to just drain and gravity feed is super slow. I was looking at a cheap pump on Amazon and then looking to do a larger diameter hose.

Pump like this:
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Would also do a easy to use switch for it:
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Wanted a flexible yet at least a 1" diameter (25' min, but 35' ideal) hose out... ideas? Pond tubing?

If anyone has made a homemade setup like this, please post some pics. Would love to get some ideas.
 

DMD123

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So conceptually something like this Petsmart product but on a larger scale
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sir_keith

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I've been using this little submersible pump to drain my tanks for years. I just hook it up to a length of flexible 3/4" tubing, and pump the tank water into the garden. Works for me! :)

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Modest_Man

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I use a 1800 gph mag drive pump with a threaded adapter to a garden hose. Don't really need photos. I throw a sponge over the intake when there are small fish around.

1" hose (flex PVC or Pond flex) is going to be about twice as much as a 5/8" or 3/4" garden hose.
 

DMD123

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Im waiting till Prime Day to see if any pumps go on sale. My Python hose is kind of small so the idea was for a larger hose for high flow but even a 3/4 garden hose would work and still be fairly reasonable in price.

I wanted to make something out of plastic like I did with my gravity feed drain attachments but put pump on one side and make it that I could thread garden hose on other side.
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DMD123

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Thanks for that @Betty! My idea was similar but had not considered the safety part so you won’t drain too low. That was a concern and now I have a better idea to deal with it.
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Doing a joint with two threaded elbows would work well. Reminds me of how they do sprinkler heads. Of course those are done for flexibility in placement but I can see this working…
 

DMD123

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Really liking the idea of a safety so you dont drain too low on the tank... But wonder what prevents the pump from overheating if it stops pumping? Does it have an auto shut off if it detects no water? Or is the fact part of it is still submerged enough to prevent a burn out if left not pumping water through pump?

Waiting for this upcoming Prime Day to see if any better submersible pumps go on sale otherwise the one I post is the one I will get. I am looking to just use a 3/4 inch garden hose as the out put. It should move more water than a standard python hose.

Im kind of excited to make this. The draining part of the water change in the 300 if really slow along with my two 65B's. To get the speed I want out of it on the 300, I sometimes use 3 python hoses gravity draining in the yard. That's the speed I want at least but then I have three hoses to get out and put away. Any time saved in draining is made up for in the use of equipment, lol.
 

fishguy1978

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You would have to wire some kind of safety switch into the system. I think the pump assist works with the idea of you being in the fish room but free to do multiple tasks.
 

DMD123

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You would have to wire some kind of safety switch into the system. I think the pump assist works with the idea of you being in the fish room but free to do multiple tasks.
I reread the ad for the unit from the link @Betty provided and I see they were talking about setting the unit and waling away with the gravity fed unit, not powered. My simple hooks were carefully measured for my 90’s and I can just start draining and walk away with no worries.

Got home and did a gravel vac/water change and just really realized the actual touch up with the gravel vac doesn’t take out that much water but its just slow draining off the rest to replace with fresh. I need to get a pump soon, it is ridiculous how much time it takes to maintain the 300.
 

sir_keith

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You would have to wire some kind of safety switch into the system. I think the pump assist works with the idea of you being in the fish room but free to do multiple tasks.
Multiple tasks? And what exactly could distract you whilst playing in the fish room?

Oh yeah, I forgot, a trip to the refrigerator. :cool:

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John58Ford

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The way I have seen this done was setting up pumps for ponds in the eastern side of the state. It's called a normally open float switch. When floating vertically it closes the circuit and allowed the pump to run, once the water is low enough it lays sideways it secures the power. You use the power cord as an anchor line usually zip tied to the pond pumps filter box, the pump plugs into the switch and it's all automatic from there. My grandma in dusty tri-cities used one like that to shut off her fountains when the wind and heat blew/evaporated enough water that the pond would go warm.
 

DMD123

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@John58Ford, thanks for that. Researching about that float switch set up… just seeing if its cost effective for what I want to do.
 

John58Ford

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@John58Ford, thanks for that. Researching about that float switch set up… just seeing if its cost effective for what I want to do.
I get that, the way I priced them out recently for a stock barrel I think they are $20-30. I figure if it stops a $40-80+ magdrive pump from running dry it pays for itself.
 

DMD123

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Im looking at also getting a lightweight yet durable hose that is at least 3/4”. So with pump, pvc parts, hose, etc, Im hoping to make my water changer for about $80 max.
 

DMD123

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I get that, the way I priced them out recently for a stock barrel I think they are $20-30. I figure if it stops a $40-80+ magdrive pump from running dry it pays for itself.
Any links to the units you were looking at? Kind of curious, stuff I was seeing were around $40+
 

John58Ford

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Any links to the units you were looking at? Kind of curious, stuff I was seeing were around $40+
I do, and hopefully I don't take to much of a lashing because allot of what I use "in tank" doesn't come with the sticker that says "aquarium" and the price that accompanies that. I figure this thing should only be in tank 30 minutes a week so leeching is something we would test for in my garage's not so laboratory environment.

"STAR Water Systems Plastic Float switch in the Water Pump Accessories department at Lowes.com" https://www.lowes.com/pd/STAR-Water...FmAN8Qf2nH7vernTUgRoC60IQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
 
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DMD123

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I had seen that one too. Was wondering if the materials used are that bad for the tank water…
 

John58Ford

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I had seen that one too. Was wondering if the materials used are that bad for the tank water…
That question is one I have a different view than many about. I use "fountain" pumps, RV hoses, quilt batting, fry basket grids, various vinyls, acrylic and various adhesives, hydraulic cement, drylok and pond armor with various dyes, and many more things that people have told me aren't "for aquariums". I fill my aquariums with water of good quality in great, tested and verified parameters. It's not like it's going into a boiling tank of acid. I am of the belief that if I can flash steam something, rinse it with bleach and or hydrogen peroxide, then some vinegar, rinse it off in hot water again and put it in a barrel of fresh water for a week, then test said barrel with my battery of pseudo lab grade tests, it might just be the same thing without the price gouge.

TBH, for a drain, fill, pond fountain, or stock barrel I would totally buy this, wash it, and give it a try. I worry more about the nano pumps I use in sub 10 gallon designs because there just isn't any water in there to dilute the problem.

BTW, cheaper mind at work. I have used and tested extensively most of the jajale line of pumps, my tank rack is full of them from 60 to 250gph. I have one of their 800GPH units in my current stock solution bucket and it's holding up great to a couple hours use per week over 3 years. If they make one the size you're looking for and it's still a decent price I can give a recommendation that direction. All of mine have come very well insulated and manufactured cleanly. The housings are the only weakness, usually the suction cups are stronger than the plastic.
 
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