Lets talk heaters....

DMD123

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I spent some time with the tank and moving heaters around. T series in place with the suction cups from the E series. This might be the perfect fix. If it holds I think I will order another T series and suction cups from the E series so that I have my next spare/replacement heater.
 

DMD123

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So far I am happy with how consistent the new Fluval T series are keeping temperatures. I decided to do some preemptive replacements and put one on the new 40B set up and ordered another for the 46g bowfront. Eventually I want to replace all the garage heaters to this series but at $60 a pop, Ive got to spread it out a bit. The actual heaters I should be worrying about are the Finnex on the 300g which are likely going on a couple years now. Not sure it I would want to do the Fluvals in that tank. Actually been thinking to try another in-line set up. Would require some custom plumbing to the FX6 filter so Im doing some research first. this is an area where I which I would have done a sump to be able to hide heaters in there.
 

DMD123

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Well timing was good with new heater purchase, since the Finnex on the 46g bowfront started acting up. It had the EE error on the digital readout and the water seemed cold and read 75.9 with the digital thermometer. I have the new heater in tank and am letting it acclimate before plugging it in.

Now I am for sure getting a few more new heaters. Just trying to decide if I should do 200w or 300w for the 65B’s. The 200w are rated for up to 65. I used 200w ones on the 40B and 46g bowfront even though I could have got away with 150w. Figured they were the same physical size and I may need to raise temps for medical purposes so I might as well have the extra wattage
 

lloyd378

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Well timing was good with new heater purchase, since the Finnex on the 46g bowfront started acting up. It had the EE error on the digital readout and the water seemed cold and read 75.9 with the digital thermometer. I have the new heater in tank and am letting it acclimate before plugging it in.

Now I am for sure getting a few more new heaters. Just trying to decide if I should do 200w or 300w for the 65B’s. The 200w are rated for up to 65. I used 200w ones on the 40B and 46g bowfront even though I could have got away with 150w. Figured they were the same physical size and I may need to raise temps for medical purposes so I might as well have the extra wattage
I might go bigger is better. If they are as good as you say, they will keep the tanks regulated with less effort and hopefully less electricity if it doesn’t have to be constantly on.

On a similar note, what temps are you setting your tanks to?
 

DMD123

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With these new T series Ive put them in at the factory setting and it has been right where I would shoot for. The 200 watt in the 40B was 79.8 and the 200 watt in the 46B was 80.0.
My 90g with a 300 watt is 80.2, again none of these were touched from factory setting. I used a digital infrared thermometer to check temps
 

DMD123

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I did order a 300 watt for one of the 65B and it is supposed to be delivered today. I ordered a couple replacement stick on thermometer too since a couple had worn due to the mag float catching the edges of them.

While the new Fluval T series seem pretty good I still cant believe the crappy suction cups they give. They wont hold heaters in horizontal position very long before letting loose. I ended up replacing them with the replacement suction cup from the E series heaters which hold perfectly.
 

DMD123

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Morning tank cleaning and time to install new T300 heater on the 65B. Started heating up right away and temp settled in at 79.5 without me touching the factory setting. Now I have 4 new to newer heaters going in the garage tanks. I did have the one T300 for a while but it sat in the box as a backup heater for at least a year. I still have another 65B and 90g I want to replace heaters on but not a huge rush on the 90g since its the goldfish tank and they can tolerate it a little cooler.
 

FishBeast

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I’m now using the 750 watt side of an oil-filled radiant heater to maintain air temp at around 75F in the fish area of my garage… I put up thermal curtains to separate it from the rest of the garage. I’ve been able to save money on juice and stop using individual heaters… the downside is I’m often working on the tanks naked due to the tropical climate hopefully remember to keep the garage doors closed
 

DMD123

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Picked up one more of the Fluval T300 to install in another 65B garage tank. Still need to install it but this will be heater number 5 replaced to this new heater. I am doing all this preemptively to avoid heater failures. Havent been too happy with the Finnex will see how these Fluval hold up.
 

lloyd378

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Picked up one more of the Fluval T300 to install in another 65B garage tank. Still need to install it but this will be heater number 5 replaced to this new heater. I am doing all this preemptively to avoid heater failures. Havent been too happy with the Finnex will see how these Fluval hold up.
Haven’t tried the fluval but I have always liked my metal heaters for my large aggressive cichlids as they don’t break, but the do run the risk of cracking the glass if they pull them out of their holders …..
 

DMD123

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Ive been kicking around the idea of doing a custom plumbed in-line heater set up for my 300g. I used to have one set up on the 210g back in the day and it worked well. Problem is the current Hydor inline heaters are junk and there are a few no-name/Chinese brand ones but not sure of quality. There is a new one out im considering but one heater does not seem like enough...
 

DMD123

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Installed one Fluval T300 on my 300 gallon to replace one of the Finnex units. I have another on order to replace the other Finnex. The tank was only 73 degrees with the 36w UV removed and turning up the Finnex wasnt doing anything. With the UV the temp was usually 76 to 77 degrees. Will see how these Fluval hold up but Ive installed these on most of my tanks now.
 

DMD123

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Im realizing now that the second Finnex heater is doing nothing and only the new Fluval is heating up the tank. This morning I was at 77.2 degrees and the heater was still going. My second Fluval shipped but wont be here until Saturday so the current fluval is working hard to get the job done.
 

DMD123

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wife called and said the heater was still going and tank had got to 77.9 degrees. I had moved the dial to 80 on the heater from the factory setting of 78/79 so I might need to turn it down a hair when I do get two heaters going. Pretty much every one of the T series heaters has been set to a factory setting that got me 79 to 80 degrees perfectly. At least this series of hester actually heats, whereas the Fluval E series would just show a cold water error and not even heat up the tank.

The whole increase in heat is also in line with my future stocking of my 300 with the clown loaches which are said to do better with the slighter higher temps rather than cooler.

So far really liking these Fluval T series. After this heater comes in on Saturday, I will need to replace the heater on my 90g goldfish tank and purchase one back up heater to keep in the event of an emergency.
 

DMD123

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Heater finally shut off from heating mode and thermometer reads 79 degrees. Infrared said 79.5. So far so good with pretty much just the one working heater running
 

DMD123

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Single heater holding temp steady at 79 and seems to be doing well.
 

DMD123

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The temp dropped to around 78 and the single heater was okay with that. I added the second heater this afternoon and will see what my temps decide they will settle in at
 

DMD123

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With the two Fluval T300 heaters the temperature in the 300 will fluctuate within about 1 degree with temp never below 78 and Ive seen it peak at 79. Hard to believe that the old UV filter contributed about a 3 degree increase in temps and likely was the main reason I wasn’t noticing the old Finnex heaters weren’t keeping up well. Will update as some time passes and the heaters age a bit.
 
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