FrontosaDude
New Member
good call! forgot you had posted that link
close call
- Thread starter Jessielynn1024
- Start date
FrontosaDude
New Member
I probably shouldn't have used the word surge in my previous post...Only power strips labeled GFCI have built in GFCI, the red rocker switch you're referring too is a power strip with surge protection (not all power strips have surge protectors, Belkin makes some decent ones). Surge protectors will protect against excessive voltage in certain situations, GFCI will detect imbalances in current flow if you have hot wires
pbmax
Active Member
Indeed; GFCI surge protector power strips cost a lot more and provide more protection than your garden variety power strips.
My power strip didn't trip when I dripped water into one of my light timers, but the gfci plug did. I didn't notice until the temp alarm went off on one of the tanks at 3am.... much fun
My power strip didn't trip when I dripped water into one of my light timers, but the gfci plug did. I didn't notice until the temp alarm went off on one of the tanks at 3am.... much fun
FrontosaDude
New Member
I use the zilla reptile power center strip, its made by same company that makes the corallife one just a little cheaper price (I guess they assume they can charge more because it's fish related lol) but it is the same strip nonetheless....anyways, they are not GFCI, it says right in the manual:
Digital Power Center Installation
1. Once time cycle(s) are set, mount a light fixture onto the aquarium.
2. Plug Fixture cord into the Digital Power Center.
3. Plug Digital Power Center into a grounded three-prong receptacle controlled by a GFCI.
4. Turn on the Digital Power Center ON/OFF switch (red light is visible when power is on)
I thought that they would have included GFCI but discovered they don't when reading the manual, luckily my house has GFCI wall sockets so I'm good...Gizmo: you can replace your wall plug or do what pbmax suggested and buy the adapter piece from amazon.
Digital Power Center Installation
1. Once time cycle(s) are set, mount a light fixture onto the aquarium.
2. Plug Fixture cord into the Digital Power Center.
3. Plug Digital Power Center into a grounded three-prong receptacle controlled by a GFCI.
4. Turn on the Digital Power Center ON/OFF switch (red light is visible when power is on)
I thought that they would have included GFCI but discovered they don't when reading the manual, luckily my house has GFCI wall sockets so I'm good...Gizmo: you can replace your wall plug or do what pbmax suggested and buy the adapter piece from amazon.
Gizmo
Active Member
I've got GFCI's in my fuse box as well. Problem is, GFCI's for home use in a breaker panel have a much higher trip point than it takes to zap a fish tank. The outlet GFCI's are much better, IMO.
On that note, are AFCI's any better for aquariums than GFCI's, since even when an electrical component falls in the drink, it won't be grounded unless YOU become the ground?
FYI, AFCI = Arc Fault Circuit Interruptor. They measure current characteristics phase-to-phase, instead of current magnitude. They're useful for detecting small leakage currents caused by shorting electrical appliances which are of a nature that do not result in a fault, but over time can light things on fire. i.e. if somebody drives a nail through a wall and cuts the insulation on an electrical cable behind the sheetrock. Won't arc to ground, but the leakage currents will seep out of the wire through the nail into the stud or sheetrock, and will eventually light them off.
On that note, are AFCI's any better for aquariums than GFCI's, since even when an electrical component falls in the drink, it won't be grounded unless YOU become the ground?
FYI, AFCI = Arc Fault Circuit Interruptor. They measure current characteristics phase-to-phase, instead of current magnitude. They're useful for detecting small leakage currents caused by shorting electrical appliances which are of a nature that do not result in a fault, but over time can light things on fire. i.e. if somebody drives a nail through a wall and cuts the insulation on an electrical cable behind the sheetrock. Won't arc to ground, but the leakage currents will seep out of the wire through the nail into the stud or sheetrock, and will eventually light them off.
pbmax
Active Member
All of my GFCIs are either receptacles or plug replacements; I only have ckt breakers in my panel (built in 1986).
The purpose of GFCIs for aquarium use is primarily to save folks from being electrocuted. In that capacity I believe it's more appropriate than an AFCI. I guess it's possible an AFCI could have detected this lamp failure... It's also possible a GFCI would have failed to catch it.
Someone should replicate the failure scenario on both GFCI and AFCI ckts and report back.
The purpose of GFCIs for aquarium use is primarily to save folks from being electrocuted. In that capacity I believe it's more appropriate than an AFCI. I guess it's possible an AFCI could have detected this lamp failure... It's also possible a GFCI would have failed to catch it.
Someone should replicate the failure scenario on both GFCI and AFCI ckts and report back.
Addicted2CAs
Member
Thanks for the link, that is a cool GFCI. The auto reset alone is worth it.pbmax said:
Good to hear nothing but some plastic was burnt! My fear is that one day I stick my hand in the tank to clean and get jump started!