Sump and Sponge filters

shua

New Member
sandnuka said:
sump10.jpg
sump_o10.jpg
this is like our 150g our 250 and 55 are the retro fit like the one he has q about this one is nice cuz it never has any problems
 
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Anonymous

Guest
I am new to sumps, no doubt, but you didn't just buy one and become super sump man! lol..

Ok, seriously, I just figured it out. The siphon won't break due to the isolation chamber, so given the water will remain at equilibrium, it will not break siphon..see, I learned something today.

Now, I have it figured out..but I am still keeping my sponges as a redundant filter system.
 

sandnuka

New Member
I deleted a couple posts, not to say anyone said or did anything too out of line.... but really this is a good thread, with allot of good information for people that are tryin to start a sump themselves. so i want to keep the whole thing up, without makin anyone feel dumb.. thanks
 

shua

New Member
be carefull they clog ez. and ash made me learn first befor i could get one see there is a plus to being whipped
 
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Anonymous

Guest
sandnuka said:
i want to keep the whole thing up, without makin anyone feel dumb.. thanks
That's Ok..only 2 people called me dumb..lol.
 

Ashley

New Member
shua said:
be carefull they clog ez. and ash made me learn first befor i could get one see there is a plus to being whipped
hahaha...yes! I just like knowing about things before I buy them.
 
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Anonymous

Guest
No worries man, it's cool. It took me a minute to figure out the level in the isolation chamber (due to the drain holes) would not get so low that it broke siphon, the design is purposeful and retains equilibrium, so as long as the return line does not reverse siphon (check valve or keep the return out of water) it will never overflow. I have a much better understanding of the equipment. Thanks for your help!
 

icer711

New Member
ok the box with the teeth and the box in the part with the sponges will equalize and not break the siphon.... you would only get reverse siphon from your pump if you spray-bar/return tube is lower than your over flow box in the tank that is assuming you did not put a check value on the pump...
quick synopsis of how your sump work...... lets say you have 10gls of water below your pumps about half of that into the tank till your water level rises to fill your overflow box then the box in and out of your tank will equalize the extra between the to (where the j-tubes were) will spill over into the sponge area and then down the drain returning back into the sump now when the pump stop pumping the the tank will lover to the internal overflow box lowest point then stop (there will be water in the internal overflow box and the center section where the j-tubes are both ends of the j-tube will be submerged thus not losing the siphon) and once power/pump is restarted the to boxes will restart and thus drain back into the sump (all this is accomplished but the the two boxes equalizing in and out of the tank) any problems you are going to have are a reverse siphon from the pump with out a check value or it be placed to low into the tank (blow the overflows lowest point)
 

shua

New Member
icer711 said:
ok the box with the teeth and the box in the part with the sponges will equalize and not break the siphon.... you would only get reverse siphon from your pump if you spray-bar/return tube is lower than your over flow box in the tank that is assuming you did not put a check value on the pump...
quick synopsis of how your sump work...... lets say you have 10gls of water below your pumps about half of that into the tank till your water level rises to fill your overflow box then the box in and out of your tank will equalize the extra between the to (where the j-tubes were) will spill over into the sponge area and then down the drain returning back into the sump now when the pump stop pumping the the tank will lover to the internal overflow box lowest point then stop (there will be water in the internal overflow box and the center section where the j-tubes are both ends of the j-tube will be submerged thus not losing the siphon) and once power/pump is restarted the to boxes will restart and thus drain back into the sump (all this is accomplished but the the two boxes equalizing in and out of the tank) any problems you are going to have are a reverse siphon from the pump with out a check value or it be placed to low into the tank (blow the overflows lowest point)
i wish i could have been this articulate with my words
 

icer711

New Member
lol did i get it all? its way easier to show how it works than explain it, hope it all made scene :p
oh forgot the sponges are taking the air bubbles from the turbulence in the water and the free floating particles (and will clog fairly easily) out before it returns into the sump.. there just glorified pre-filters
 
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Anonymous

Guest
The sump is running fine, the HUGE sponge filters are in there and doing their job. I have to mess with my water level a bit to get it just perfect, but in the month I have had the sump up, there have been no issues. Thanks for the write up TJ, very informative.
 

larry.beck

New Member
Spyral said:
The sump is running fine, the HUGE sponge filters are in there and doing their job. I have to mess with my water level a bit to get it just perfect, but in the month I have had the sump up, there have been no issues. Thanks for the write up TJ, very informative.
That, my friend, is a testament unto itself. Most people with sumps flood themselves sometime in the first week, if not the first day. :lol:
 

Cory

Administrator
Staff member
Now that you've figured out to keep it from not breaking siphon. I strongly recommend making a system to suck out any bubbles that collect at the top of your U Tubes. This can be done by using a power head, using the venturi system that is supposed to suck in air. Instead you have it go to the top of each U tube, and any bubbles that get sucked in via siphon, will be pulled out by the venturi system. Also in the event that something happens to your siphon, when power is restored to the power heads, it'll restart the siphon.

The power heads can be installed on the lift tube of your sponge filter also, you could delete the air injection entirely, and make a more efficient sponge filter that way also. One day in the next 10 years, you'll flood your floor,due to siphon breaking, without something to pull bubbles out.

It'll be 3 days after a holiday, when you've been busy to check for bubbles building up, and your big fish keeps making waves, putting bubbles into the U tube. Protect yourself before you *NEED* to protect yourself.
 

shua

New Member
i dont see any way to have air bubbles go into my U pipe with the overflow box. I have never had any such problem. :scratch: i would like to see what you are talkin about
 
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Anonymous

Guest
shua said:
i dont see any way to have air bubbles go into my U pipe with the overflow box. I have never had any such problem. :scratch: i would like to see what you are talkin about
Same here..interested to see what he means.
 

icer711

New Member
ill third that i know if its a DIY built one he is correct but the box overflows (with the clear U tubes) i have never seen them collect air in them, the air i have seen go in get passed right though in a instant
 

Cory

Administrator
Staff member
Hmm, apon further research, it'll only happen if your overflow is rated much faster than your return pump. Ie your pump does 1000 gallons, and youre overflow can do 3000 gph. It'll leave tiny bubbles in, if they were to go through.
 
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