RO vs. RO/DI Systems

[ShortyKiloGyrl]

I am super new to this idea but definitely need one or the other since my copper levels are so high. From the way I've interpreted it an RO system will remove the copper than I need removed and the deionization portion isn't necessarily a must. I was wondering if you do not put the deionization portion on to the RO system if you still have to add as much good things back into the water. Or if I should get a 3 to 5 stage system to cover pretty much anything/everything.

Also, I'm wondering from your experience and knowledge what the BEST and cost effective system would be and it be the most reliable as well.

Thank you for your input and help in all my recent fish keeping endeavors!

 

[ShortyKiloGyrl]

Okay, so here are some options I'm looking into and wondering if anyone can weigh in.


Not sure if I NEED the Deionization portion so there is this option:

Aquatic Life RO Buddie Three Stage Reverse Osmosis 50 GPD - $65.95
http://www.kensfish.com/aquarium-suppli ... 0-gpd.html

Coralife Pure Flo II 50 GPD RO Unit - $139.95
http://www.kensfish.com/aquarium-suppli ... -unit.html


Or the full set up(s):

Coralife 50 GPD RO/DI Unit - 50GPD - $169.95
http://www.kensfish.com/aquarium-suppli ... -unit.html

AquaFX Barracuda RO/DI Unit - 50GPD - $143.99
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/p ... atid=24110


Coralife Pure-Flo II RO Unit - 50GPD - $129.99
http://www.drsfostersmith.com/product/p ... atid=12093

BRS 4 Stage Value RO/DI System - 75GPD - $149.99
http://www.bulkreefsupply.com/brs-4-sta ... gpd-2.html

 

[star_rider]

DI is suppose to make the water 'more pure'
most folks probably don't need the DI unit.

the only issue I've heard of with DI units is the possibility of the DI resin becoming a breeding ground for bacteria.

you can back flush RO units but this is not the case with DI.

in some cases a pump is needed to get enough pressure to pass water thru the filter.

 

[ShortyKiloGyrl]

My main concern is removing the copper and lead. Which from my reading and understanding that happens pre-DI unit in the RO system correct?

 

[star_rider]

yes. the RO will remove much of the copper and other heavy particles.
the RO filter is set up before the DI chamber.

the DI would be an ion scrubber in essence polishing the water,

I use RO/DI for my altum tank.
keep in mind the filter will eventually need new membranes and you can extend the life of the membranes by having the filter plumbed with a flush valve.

 

[ShortyKiloGyrl]

So would you recommend for angels, tetras, plecos, and possible future discus, is an RO system appropraite or would a RO/DI system be required?

 

[bassetman]

Is your current ph ok for your fish? Main reason I DI is to help get my 8.3 down into a range the altums like. You can always add DI stages if you get a straight RO unit. Ro alone should get you to 1 ppm total dissolved solids (TDS ).

 

[bassetman]

Also be aware that a 75 gallon per day unit will take close to 70-85 minutes to fill a five gallon bucket. This is why I went with a 150 GPD unit.

 

[ShortyKiloGyrl]

My pH from the tap comes out about 6.8. If I do 50% water changes on all my tanks the same day that would be about 78 gallons. I try to do 30% water changes weekly though. So that would iffy and pushing it for amount necessary. I figure I'd install a float shut off switch as well.

 

[bassetman]

The float switch is a great idea. A little overflow goes a long way.

 

[ShortyKiloGyrl]

Definitely. I overflowed a 5 gallon bucket. And not by much, but it makes a huge mess. Water travels fast! lol Is my pH a good range to not mess with?

 

[bassetman]

Depends on your choice of fish. If you want it lowered DI will sure do it. You are keeping mostly standard Angels right now? The the ph is ok. If your future plans include low ph fish you can add DI stages for about 35 bucks a stage with canister, DI resin, resin holder, and fittings. This is with the bulk reef supply stuff. If you later do not want DI remove the resin holder and the canister holds filer cartridges or extra carbon block. You can never have too much pre filter.....unless you get ridiculous. Do you know you water pressure? Even "decent" pressure is likely enough to run the ro unit. If you need a pump that gets a bit spendy but most do not need one. My water is at over 90 psi the units can take 80 safely without leaks.

 

[ShortyKiloGyrl]

Our psi is pretty good. I don't know it exactly but I know I am not concerned of it. We can have over 100 ft of hose stretched out and still able to comfortably put out a bonfire that starts to get out of control *ahem, boyfriend*. I do just have standard angels right now and so far this is what I plan to keep. Maybe discus in the future but haven't ventured that far yet.

 

[bassetman]

Pressure sounds just great. Good systems have a pressure gauge so yo do not over do it. This is why using the facet adapter is nice. You dial up the right pressure and go.

 

[dleblanc]

I have an RO/DI from SpectraPure. I have nitrates in my well water, and you have to have DI to get rid of those, which it does quite nicely. Tap water has about 60 ppm TDS, output water is < 5 ppm, so pretty pure. I then make it back up with SeaChem stuff to get the KH/GH back up where I need it.

Water is made into a 30 gallon staging barrel where it is aerated and heated. Mine is the 180 gpd model, but we have low pressure, and it only produces about 5 gph, not 7.5. But I've got the cutoff valve, so do a water change, come back a few hours later, I can then do another.

I am not sure how much Cu and Pb the RO part will take out. I suspect the carbon filter stage is going to get most of it.

 

[ShortyKiloGyrl]

So I did go with an RO/DI unit. I purchased the 75 gpd unit with float shut off and an inline pump so I can do water changes with that instead of the python. Save more on water. I also purchased a 50 gallon barrel and stand from home depot and will be getting a heater this week to keep it from freezing since it will be stored outside. Dleblanc what heater do you have in your 30 gallon staging barrel? I was going to get a livestock tank heater since I was doing cold water changes before, I would only need the water to not freeze in the winter.

 

[dleblanc]

I have a utility bathroom, so it is inside, and I use a normal aquarium heater. Stock tank heaters will rust, and throw a lot of iron back into your water, which defeats the purpose. I didn't know Home Depot sold food-grade barrels - I drove all the way into Seattle to get mine. If it will be outside, I'd just tape some insulation around it, and then go for twice as much heater as you'd normally get for an aquarium. I also have a bubbler for mine so that the change water is aerated.

 

[ShortyKiloGyrl]

They aren't food grade I don't believe but they carry water specific barrels for rainwater and my mom uses them for her sensitive plants. I figure if it's been through the RO/DI system and in there it should be fine. They are designed specifically for holding water.

Odd that the livestock tank heaters would rust. I would think that would be a health hazard for live stock.

We were definitely considering insulation around the barrel. When you add minerals back into the water what do you use? And do you add that to the holding barrel each time you do a fill or do you add it directly to the tank as you are doing the fill?