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Anonymous
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Anonymous
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Water flow- Im in the experimental stage on this. With all the research I've already done the most I seen someone was changing out per week is 80%. Im housing fish that can be sensitive so im starting out at about %50 per week (70 gallons). Planning on doing more research and perhaps up the amount as long as the fish stay healthy.
Winter freeze - I'll more than likely insulate the hose and watch it closely this 1st winter and see what happens. NW doesn't get deep freezes so I think a little insulation will do.
hang on overflow- I thought about this for a bit and couldn't get past how to maintain a constant siphon with such a little amount exiting.
I was also thinking about plumbing the 30 gallon tank into the sump its sitting next to but I would need a 2 pump system and didn't really like that idea. (still thinking about this though..)
Winter freeze - I'll more than likely insulate the hose and watch it closely this 1st winter and see what happens. NW doesn't get deep freezes so I think a little insulation will do.
hang on overflow- I thought about this for a bit and couldn't get past how to maintain a constant siphon with such a little amount exiting.
I was also thinking about plumbing the 30 gallon tank into the sump its sitting next to but I would need a 2 pump system and didn't really like that idea. (still thinking about this though..)
fishman09
Member
The hang on overflows are trippy in how they work and dont seem to make any sense at all but they work well. Do not reccomend though as they fail.
I do 1gph on my 55 and 75 doing 168 gallons changed weekly (over 300% for the 55 and over 200% on the 75) and .5gph on my 20-29 system changing 84 gallons (around 200%) and all the fish do is grow like mad.
I do 1gph on my 55 and 75 doing 168 gallons changed weekly (over 300% for the 55 and over 200% on the 75) and .5gph on my 20-29 system changing 84 gallons (around 200%) and all the fish do is grow like mad.
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Anonymous
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Oh jeez, this is the kind of info im looking for. Thank you for jumping in. Seems like a whole lot more new water circulation than I was thinking about. That would be awesome to exchange that much water. My tank is planted so I would think cycling this much water flow would also replace trace elements. My water bill would rise but my fertilizer bill would drop...lol!fishman09 said:
fishman09
Member
yeah here's my breakdown of how mine is setup
225/150 (same sump so 390 gallon system) 2gph=336 gallons weekly or 86% weekly
135=1gph drip changing 168 weekly or 124% weekly
75=1gph, 168 gallons or 224% weekly
55=1gph, 168 gallons or 305% weekly
20l= .5gph, 84 gallons or 420% weekly (output runs to 29g underneath and out through the 29)
Total of 756 gallons changed weekly without having to do anything on my part. Were only using an extra 20$ on water above the base charge so not breaking the bank there.
225/150 (same sump so 390 gallon system) 2gph=336 gallons weekly or 86% weekly
135=1gph drip changing 168 weekly or 124% weekly
75=1gph, 168 gallons or 224% weekly
55=1gph, 168 gallons or 305% weekly
20l= .5gph, 84 gallons or 420% weekly (output runs to 29g underneath and out through the 29)
Total of 756 gallons changed weekly without having to do anything on my part. Were only using an extra 20$ on water above the base charge so not breaking the bank there.
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Anonymous
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Very nice Fishman09. I do like the 20 and 29 water cascade. Did you drill glass at the proper overflow depth or use another method?
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Anyway you can elaborate on the duel overflow system? Perhaps a picture? I would like to incorporate a 29 into the system.fishman09 said:
My 29 sits right next to my 30 gallon sump. I could technically drill another hole in the sump about 4-5 inches below the rim for the 29 gallon tanks exit water.
I have been contemplating draining and drilling the 29. I've never drilled a glass tank and was unsure if i would compromise its integrity by drilling a small hole only 2-3 inches from the top of the tank.
Perhaps if you dont mind sharing more info- could you share just how you drilled the small exit hole on your 20 &29 , and perhaps the hardwear used to drill and plumb?
Addicted2CAs
Member
Curious as to why you say this. Possibly a bad personal experience? I run two and they are incredibly stable and reliable, one being DIY. I don't use the skimmer style though, it is dual 1.5" U-tubes from the tank to overflow.fishman09 said:
Wow that is ALOT of water turnover! Nice. I bet you can watch the growth!
Addicted2CAs
Member
Thanks to this thread I went ahead and installed one as well. As fishman said these are super simple.
First off I added a T off the washer cold water faucet then attached a garden hose adapter with ball valve to the T. Off the adapter is a female garden hose thread to a 1/4" compression fitting.
Punched a small hole through the wall and routed the line to the sump and attached a 1gph emitter.
For drain I drilled a 1/2" hole in the sump and added a 1/2" NPT to 1/4" compression fitting. I then screwed the fitting into the 1/2" hole using the fitting to make threads, and being tapered they come up tight and seal themselves. I also placed the drain before the new water as to minimize sucking out good water. This way the water goes in the pump chamber and directly to the tank.
After that I routed the 1/4" line along the wall and out the garage.
First off I added a T off the washer cold water faucet then attached a garden hose adapter with ball valve to the T. Off the adapter is a female garden hose thread to a 1/4" compression fitting.
Punched a small hole through the wall and routed the line to the sump and attached a 1gph emitter.
For drain I drilled a 1/2" hole in the sump and added a 1/2" NPT to 1/4" compression fitting. I then screwed the fitting into the 1/2" hole using the fitting to make threads, and being tapered they come up tight and seal themselves. I also placed the drain before the new water as to minimize sucking out good water. This way the water goes in the pump chamber and directly to the tank.
After that I routed the 1/4" line along the wall and out the garage.
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Anonymous
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Awesome!!
I've only ran into one issue so far... All my angel fish now school under my water return and swim up the current nearly ALL DAY!.... Lol. I think they dig the fresh water or something.
I've only ran into one issue so far... All my angel fish now school under my water return and swim up the current nearly ALL DAY!.... Lol. I think they dig the fresh water or something.
Addicted2CAs
Member
Maybe this is really the way to go as far as fish health?!theChad said:
Only ran into one problem and that is my drain being the same size as the source. It drains fine, however being gravity fed the incoming is slightly faster than the drain as the drain is working off a 2-3 degree slope. So it works but not as much as I need. Granted it would take about 3 days to start overflowing the sump I am still going to bump the drain to 3/8" tonight and see what happens.
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Anonymous
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I thought I would have this problem too (thought about it after i drilled&plumbed), but the drain is keeping up. My drain is maybe 2.6 feet and at a good downward angle. My flow is about 1 gallon per 1.5-2 hours.Addicted2CAs said:
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Anonymous
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I may up the diameter later if I plump in my 30 gallon. Every once in a while the drain will "burp"... Like stop flowing, then the water will raise maybe a half inch above the drain then it will rush out...
Im not 100% comfortable with this but I monitor my tank pretty closely and like you it will take days before the water would even come near the top of the sump. Over all the system was been running consistently enough to have faith in it.
Im not 100% comfortable with this but I monitor my tank pretty closely and like you it will take days before the water would even come near the top of the sump. Over all the system was been running consistently enough to have faith in it.
Addicted2CAs
Member
That's exactly what mine was doing, raising an inch then draining. However each time it raises I can see it goes slightly higher. I also want to go bigger in case of a power outage, my sump doesn't have the capacity to hold all the tank water. This way it will simple water the garden!
I can't think of it for the life of me but I know there is another reason why the drain should always be larger than the incoming. hmmm......google for the win!
I can't think of it for the life of me but I know there is another reason why the drain should always be larger than the incoming. hmmm......google for the win!
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Anonymous
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Im not understanding the power outage thing?!?! The sump system is self contained and should stop and restart in the case of a power outage...Addicted2CAs said:
Addicted2CAs
Member
So I have two 1.5" U-tubes feeding water from tank to overflow and then in each bulkhead is a 1" piece of PVC that dictates main tank water level. When power goes out, pump shuts down and the water will continue to drain into the wet/dry until main tank is at the level of those tubes, filling the wet/dry. Since my wet/dry was made to use an external pump it is alot lower and longer than my other wet/dry's reducing its ability to hold that overflowing tank water. And you are correct, when the power comes back on it will all balance itself again.
Hope that makes some sense!
Hope that makes some sense!
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Anonymous
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DOH!Addicted2CAs said:
An overflow box would prevent a sump overflow issue. Once the water level gets under the skimmer of the overflow syphon stops! Then a check valve on the water return line will prevent back flow siphon through the pump. My sump level rises maybe an inch when power is cut...
Addicted2CAs
Member
Mine works the same way except it is setup exactly opposite. Instead of the teeth of a skimmer being the level dictator the standpipes in the box themselves do that and I usually keep them small to keep lots of pressure on them hence moving lots of water.
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This is a DYI setup? Do you mind sharing pictures? How many times per hour are you cycling the tank using this system?Addicted2CAs said:
.... Just curious....
:cyclops: