I am currently getting ready to set up a new 210g tank, and I am torn on which route to go for filtration. I currently have a Marineland HOB on my 60g, and a AquaClear HOB on my 30 and 46g. For a larger tank, however, I am wanting to keep the back of the tank somewhat clean and uncluttered, as it will be in a place that the back will be visible to people in our house. I have considered getting a couple of AquaClear HOBs and running them together, but that defeats my goal of keeping the back of the tank uncluttered. That leaves my with two options: a canister or a sump. As such, I am looking at either a Fluval FX6 or a EShopp sump filter. What would my pros and cons of these be? I am leaning towards the Fluval for ease of use and simplicity, but I would appreciate any thoughts and suggestions!
Filteration for larger tanks?
- Thread starter krislhull
- Start date
L190
Well-Known Member
I have to agree with vicmacki. on my 180g, I started with a fx5 but found out quickly I needed more filtration since I keep very messy fish. I added a wet/dry filter I made out of a 29g tank. it takes some work to figure water levels so you don't over flow but maintenance is much easier on the sump. I just replace the filter pad where as with the fx5, I need to take it out from under the tank, unclamp, rinse the sponge and filter material, place all that stuff back, clamp it down and make sure it is sealed well, and hook it back. although doing all that is a PITA, I still run the fx5 because it collects debris really well.
You talk about clutter on the back of the tank, well arent the hoses from the canister causing clutter? If you dont set it up for a sump now, then you never will. Sumps are easier to maintain, run your tanks cleaner, better flow, are cheaper to run, and imo safer for the fish. No telling how much bad bacteria grows and thrives in a moist, dark and warm canister.
Let me paint this picture. It has been 2 months since you maintenanced the Fx6, you just got home from a busy day and now you have to crawl under the tank, disconnect the hoses, drag that huge, heavy filter out, drag it to where ever you are going to clean it. an hour later you have it back in place. So realizing that you are tired and that you have all of that pain in the rear work ahead of you, you decide "Ill just do it tomorrow".
Whereas a wet/dry sump, you come home, you open the cabinet doors, you then remove the top or pull the draw open that houses you filter media, (floss, pads whatever you use), you gather it up, place it into a container so there is no mess, you replace the pads. 10 minutes your done, and ZERO heavy lifting or getting your wifes bathroom or kitchen sink all dirty from the canister cleaning.
Now lets talk flow and power. It states that the Fx6 is 900+gph but this is what the manufacturer says about their flow. "Note: Flow rates were measured with intake and output hoses of the same length and without media." So as soon as you start running that thing the flow goes down, Id be willing to bet that your flow would be more around the 500-700gph or maybe less. Also it draws 50 watts of power which isnt bad for a canister. Now in a sump you can use a RIO 2500 for example it pushes 700-800gph and does not go down in pressure as the wet/dry becomes dirty, and it draws 50watts. Or you can go with what I use and that is the Deep Blue Triton. I use the #5 but the #4 is what we will use for comparison. The 4 uses 40watts of power and pushes 1050gph, all day every day. Heck the #3 uses 30 watts and pushes 850gph.
Also speaking of clutter, with a sump you can add your heater to the sump and not have to have it hanging on the back of the tank with an ugly cord. Not to mention if the heater develops a short, that short is is the sump and not in the tank where your fish live and where you place your hands.
I ran canisters and HOBs on all of my tanks, at one point, my electric bill was over $500/mth. I switched to sumps or wet/drys on all tanks over 150 gal and sponge filters on all tanks smaller than 150. My electric bill for 34 tanks and a dehumidifier running 24/7 is now $240/month.
I hope this helps
Let me paint this picture. It has been 2 months since you maintenanced the Fx6, you just got home from a busy day and now you have to crawl under the tank, disconnect the hoses, drag that huge, heavy filter out, drag it to where ever you are going to clean it. an hour later you have it back in place. So realizing that you are tired and that you have all of that pain in the rear work ahead of you, you decide "Ill just do it tomorrow".
Whereas a wet/dry sump, you come home, you open the cabinet doors, you then remove the top or pull the draw open that houses you filter media, (floss, pads whatever you use), you gather it up, place it into a container so there is no mess, you replace the pads. 10 minutes your done, and ZERO heavy lifting or getting your wifes bathroom or kitchen sink all dirty from the canister cleaning.
Now lets talk flow and power. It states that the Fx6 is 900+gph but this is what the manufacturer says about their flow. "Note: Flow rates were measured with intake and output hoses of the same length and without media." So as soon as you start running that thing the flow goes down, Id be willing to bet that your flow would be more around the 500-700gph or maybe less. Also it draws 50 watts of power which isnt bad for a canister. Now in a sump you can use a RIO 2500 for example it pushes 700-800gph and does not go down in pressure as the wet/dry becomes dirty, and it draws 50watts. Or you can go with what I use and that is the Deep Blue Triton. I use the #5 but the #4 is what we will use for comparison. The 4 uses 40watts of power and pushes 1050gph, all day every day. Heck the #3 uses 30 watts and pushes 850gph.
Also speaking of clutter, with a sump you can add your heater to the sump and not have to have it hanging on the back of the tank with an ugly cord. Not to mention if the heater develops a short, that short is is the sump and not in the tank where your fish live and where you place your hands.
I ran canisters and HOBs on all of my tanks, at one point, my electric bill was over $500/mth. I switched to sumps or wet/drys on all tanks over 150 gal and sponge filters on all tanks smaller than 150. My electric bill for 34 tanks and a dehumidifier running 24/7 is now $240/month.
I hope this helps
You talk about clutter on the back of the tank, well arent the hoses from the canister causing clutter? If you dont set it up for a sump now, then you never will. Sumps are easier to maintain, run your tanks cleaner, better flow, are cheaper to run, and imo safer for the fish. No telling how much bad bacteria grows and thrives in a moist, dark and warm canister.
Let me paint this picture. It has been 2 months since you maintenanced the Fx6, you just got home from a busy day and now you have to crawl under the tank, disconnect the hoses, drag that huge, heavy filter out, drag it to where ever you are going to clean it. an hour later you have it back in place. So realizing that you are tired and that you have all of that pain in the rear work ahead of you, you decide "Ill just do it tomorrow".
Whereas a wet/dry sump, you come home, you open the cabinet doors, you then remove the top or pull the draw open that houses you filter media, (floss, pads whatever you use), you gather it up, place it into a container so there is no mess, you replace the pads. 10 minutes your done, and ZERO heavy lifting or getting your wifes bathroom or kitchen sink all dirty from the canister cleaning.
Now lets talk flow and power. It states that the Fx6 is 900+gph but this is what the manufacturer says about their flow. "Note: Flow rates were measured with intake and output hoses of the same length and without media." So as soon as you start running that thing the flow goes down, Id be willing to bet that your flow would be more around the 500-700gph or maybe less. Also it draws 50 watts of power which isnt bad for a canister. Now in a sump you can use a RIO 2500 for example it pushes 700-800gph and does not go down in pressure as the wet/dry becomes dirty, and it draws 50watts. Or you can go with what I use and that is the Deep Blue Triton. I use the #5 but the #4 is what we will use for comparison. The 4 uses 40watts of power and pushes 1050gph, all day every day. Heck the #3 uses 30 watts and pushes 850gph.
Also speaking of clutter, with a sump you can add your heater to the sump and not have to have it hanging on the back of the tank with an ugly cord. Not to mention if the heater develops a short, that short is is the sump and not in the tank where your fish live and where you place your hands.
I ran canisters and HOBs on all of my tanks, at one point, my electric bill was over $500/mth. I switched to sumps or wet/drys on all tanks over 150 gal and sponge filters on all tanks smaller than 150. My electric bill for 34 tanks and a dehumidifier running 24/7 is now $240/month.
I hope this helps
That does help. As for trying to keep the back of the tank uncluttered, no matter what way I go, I will have at least the intake and return lines exposed in the back, as the tank is not drilled, and I have no problem with that part.
Do you have any photos of your setup? Having no experience with sumps, I am interested to know how you regulate the flow into the sump. I understand that the return flow is regulated by the pump, but what about the intake? Forgive me if that is a basic question, but I am just wanting to make sure I fully understand this if I do go that route in the future. I have a feeling that I will probably supplement whatever I use with the other method.
Sleeves
Active Member
I've had canisters in the past and now I have a wet/dry on my 150 gal African tank. I didn't like the stock hoses that came with it so I installed pvc piping with ball valves, check valves, and disconnect union valves.
Maintenance is much easier and my heater is inside the sump so I don't have to see it in the tank. I have one fluval canister filter that I run strictly tons of Seachem purigen which is the greatest
Maintenance is much easier and my heater is inside the sump so I don't have to see it in the tank. I have one fluval canister filter that I run strictly tons of Seachem purigen which is the greatest
Is the Deep Blue Triton pretty quiet? I'm just working on setting a 20g sump up for my upcoming 50g and I am a bit concerned at how noisy the Mag Drive 7 that I got for it is. Do you feel like the Tritons are quieter? I would probably end up with a Triton 3 if I went that route.
I have been running a FX5 and 2 Aquatop 400s on my 240 for around 4 years now and they do fine. Tropheus are not bad waste wise, but there at least 60 in the tank. Cleaning wise I can do the FX5 in 20 min the other 2 about the same. I may do a sump at some point. If you can do a sump though and starting from scratch would probably be best.
Yes, I would say that the Triton is very quiet. It also comes with rubber nubs on the base to help with vibration.