I keep all my hybrid discus around neutral. Then when I want to trigger spawn i drop it a few point with ph down as i do water change...to fast a drop is probably why they are lethargic. I also vehemently reccomend keeping them above 84.5 farenhiet because that is the terminal temp for heximeta. I still once a year hit all my discus profalactily with metronidizole to ensure they do not carry hex. If clearly sick (dark/loosing weight) I have personally heated them to 91 degrees farenheit...as hot as my ebojager could go for a week no problems...fixed fish. Usually the way I fix a f**ked up beyond all repair fish orphaned to me at deaths door. A few more comments on pH...My fry have twice....repeat, twice the growth rate (control for tank size, clutch size, and food input and water out) when I raise them close to neutral. They also do better in shop you sell them to because they are used to more average PH conditions. Only my wild fish need super low PH to trigger spawns...but the fry I raise them closer to neutral. Makes them into "heirloom strains" to steal a term from my garden. Way less sensitive then my wild parents...stronger F1s. The biggest waste of money i ever spent was on Uv lights on all my breeder tanks. They never got sick (breeder pairs or babies) but once I put them in a tank without uv lamps they got the bubonic plague and were just consumed by diseases. They were raised without being exposed to any pathogens. Same idea for PH. Keep them closer to neutral unless wild caught...important to note that PH above 7.4 tends to make em black and lethargic. keep it as close to neutral or just below.